just checking my diagnostics on this

ok never had a puma untill now but ive built and used cvhs zetecs and rs i4 engines, normaly simple check when odd running is to just unplug the MAf and the car should run even worse if its not faulty, we have only had no. 273 since thursday and its been running fine but then the missus rang me today saying that it kept cutting out when slowing once in neutral or stopped, i then drove it and it did the same several times for me, i did think ICV but it cuts out like it should if unplugged and runs like crap without the tps, so am figuring its MAF. spoke to local ford dealer and they wanted 1 hours labour just to read fault codes and print me what they are, which i think is just ridiculous as im a range rover/landy tech and we only chanrge half hour if someone just wants fault codes read! so am going to take the car to my old work (backstreet garage) to use their snap on diag instead as i dont want to spend out if its not going to cure it obviously as a new tps for my rs was ££££S!
am i going along the right lines in what i think it is, and also does anyone have the correct software for idsthat tehy would be willing to sell a copy of? reason im asking is that we use IDS ourselves but ours will only talk to jags and our vehicles cz thats all its programmed to use for obvious reasons but we do have the full setup with toughbook computer and cables etc?

any help with either matter gratefully recieved, one more thing though, we have joined up fully to the club now as of yesterday, any idea average time untill we get acess to the full forum? thanks
fonfe & anita 273

I have "Scangauge" fitted in my car.
I can read off and reset fault codes as well as read loads of "Live data"


Around £120 ,

Can be used on any car built after 2000.
I reset and heater plug alarm on the wifes Toyota

can't you just put the clocks into diagnostic mode to read the fault codes stored...?

[L8FRP]

FRP cutting out when pulling up to junctions is a very common problem, usually the result of the ICV getting clogged up. But once cleaned and it still does the same then move on to the TPS. Simply dip the ICV in petrol and leave to soak for half hour making sure not to get the electrical connector wet.
The FRP’s were discovered to have a TPS wiring loom problem, that caused such problems, basically the wires are stretched to compensate for the throttle body being mounted onto the FRP inlet manifold, and having them extended also can solve the problem. But id first check the and clean the ICV.
In the technical area on the forum you'll find more help on this

see i oringally though icv as its common as anything for them to get dirty/fail on the silvertop zetecs fitted to the escorts and fiestas and my rs2000 but on all of them if the icv is at fault there should be no change when unplugged if its faulty/dirty but the car cuts out straight away as it should when unplugged so i thought thats not the case. ive read the dtc on the dash but i can only get one out of it that which is "P0115" which according to my fault list is ECT Circuit Malfunction?? so whats going on with the coolant sensor then? or am i doing something wong when im using the dash dtc fault read, i wasnt even aware that the cars could do this up untill last year as all our other fords are much older systems and all my cars havent had original designed engines in the first place! bar the just departed ZS but its never had any problems in the 2 years we owned it apart from needing a new battery once!

will give the ICV a soak tomorrow either way though just as it wont hurt it, and then go up to get all the DTCs read,
dogsbody- where did you get the scangauge from, did you fit it yourself or would i need to have it fitted somewhere? will look these up on google as seems like a handy thing to have! id buy the new snap on diagnostics but sadly i dont have a few grand to spare! mates just bought their tiny camera though which is amazing! its so tiny and has a lil LED thats will light up aswell, great if you think there may be valve damage for instance and saves removing the head!

I bought my Scanguage from Ebay Just make sure the seller uses Paypal and has good feedback !
It just plugs in to the cars ECU diagnostic port and powers up with the engine.

I got the thing it's mounted in out of a suitably aged Fiesta in a scrap yard for a few pounds.
They do sell a kit to mount it by the mirror.

It is a bit "iffy" looking down at the centre console if your going quick to try and read it.
The speed read out corresponds to my Road Angel pretty well.

L8FRP wrote:

FRP cutting out when pulling up to junctions is a very common problem, usually the result of the ICV getting clogged up. But once cleaned and it still does the same then move on to the TPS.

I had this and I fixed it by spraying switch cleaner in the TPS connector. At least, I think that fixed it - it's not doing it now.

ok the cars had (according to last owner, when we were looking) a new ICV and TPS...... this cutting out thing is intermitant though, quite frankly i really dont believe him now, as the car is supposed to have a k&n panel filter.........its got a sticker.......but OE paper filter.......starting to think this is the real reason why he sold the car. alas no use getting worked up about it, just want to fix the problem!
ive done the usual check all connectors for corrosion, ive cleaned out the ICV and ive even fitted a new one, fitted new MAF aswell but still the same problem.
on the dash display im still getting DTC P0115 but then according to the equipment at my old work the ecu has no faults stored.
am starting to think along the lines of a possible wiring fault with the ICV but then id expect a fault code to pull up for it.
if worst comes to worst, am i correct in thinking that just like most efi engines you can take the ICV out of the picture by blanking the holes for it, leaving it unplugged and setting the TB butterfly for the idle speed via the adjustment screw? ive done this on my rs2000 as the ICV just went mad one day and a new one wouldnt fix it so i just make do with having a slightly fast idle at 1k, in the cold it needs a bit of encouragement but only till it gets slightly warm.
this is a LAST LAST LAST resort though as i want to have the car running correctly as it should do as eliminating the ICV is a bit yeehaa, its fine for me escort as its a ragging car whereas the missus can drive bloody fast but 98& of the time its slow and steady.
any ideas guys?

well took it down to my man at ford today, waited a while heard the car being started so went out to see who was given the car as their next job and was pleasantly surprised to find its one of the guys that left our place to work there, ive never worked with him only met him at someone elses leaving do, but everyone at work said when he was with us he was shit hot so i had no worries.....so i waited some more and heard in beign moved again so went back outside to have a look n a chat to see what progress they had made and he was about to take it out on roadtest with IDS hooked up and he showed me tht the post cat o2 sensor wasnt really showing much activity, but was going to get the car hot hot to see if it would kick into action.
to our joy it never awoke from its slumber apart from the odd time which was when the car promptly cut out at idle. so once unplugged no problems at all, so the car needs a new o2 sensor, which i am going to fit tomorrow along with replacing the leaking cam cover, and do an oil change and wash it ready to give it back to anita
so if anyone gets cutting out at idle but cleanign ICV doesnt solve it, get it hooked up to IDS to check the o2 sensors!